At 25-years of age I was unaware what a ‘take me’ moment was let alone realise that several had already passed me by. That was until I found myself swapping travel stories with Brett from Perth in a bar in Indonesia. Continue reading
Tag Archives: surfing
The Long Wave Goodbye
I got my first surfboard on my 17th birthday, 12th May 1979. It wasn’t a custom made model but was what was called a ‘pop-out’ in those days. At 7-foot long, white with a long red arrow on the deck (presumably to indicate which was the front and the intended direction of travel!), it was the perfect present for a Londoner newly arrived to the wilds of North Cornwall. Continue reading
Surfing with Pelicans
The rising sun cast long shadows across the cool sand. I stood on the same stretch of beach where the evening before I had watched the release of several hundred Olive Ridley baby turtles and looked west out over the Pacific. Continue reading
Mr Blue Sky
It was 3am in the morning and not a breath of wind stirred. As the shadow of the earth moved across the heavens the white crescent of the moon gradually disappeared and the sun’s rays turned the moon a deep, mysterious orange: a Hunters’ Moon. Continue reading
Today is the 12th May 2015. My birthday. I am 53-years old and happy with that and would not have it otherwise.
On Meditation – and surfing
I used to think that I knew how to sit quietly with myself. Now I know how wrong that assumption was. Continual distractions would arrive via my senses, an itch here or a sound there, and bounce me off the path.